Monday, March 24, 2008

Wine Country

Over Easter weekend Matt and I headed to Australia's wine country in South Australia with Al, Cheryl and Cooper. South Australia is Cheryl's old stomping ground so she led the way on our 12 hour drive. Our destination was Mintaro past the Murray River, skirting around Adelaide, thru the Barossa valley and into the Clare Valley. Having never visited California's wine region and only a small, family vineyard in Italy this was my first experience of vineyard after vineyard after vineyard. Where there weren't grape vines there were olive trees since the olive industry is growing rapidly in Australia.


We stayed in the guest accommodations of Julie and Mark Moss called Olde Devonshire House. Built in 1856 this building used to provide rest, refreshment and entertainment by way of a "skittles" (similar to ten pin) alley to the area's pastoralists, mining men and "bullockies". This place was gorgeous!!! I know I am turning into the crazy bird watching lady but the garden here was a bird lovers paradise filled to the rim with several varieties of wild parrots.


Luckily we just happened to be within walking distance to some of the regions wineries. Convenient! So off we went to the Mintaro Cellars. This place produces a shiraz that is absolutely scrumptious! Many places sell "clean skinned" bottles of wine which are bottles without fancy labels. Just as I was rambling on about how labels don't matter I saw the labels at Mintaro Cellars and ate my words. Not only was the wine delicious but the bottles were beautifully decorated with stained glass images. I am such a sucker for packaging.

Someone else was lurking in the bush outside of the vineyard. This region has been in serious drought for a while so I am sure some grapes might have been a tasty treat for this little roo.





Travelling around the Clare Valley I realized each of these quaint country towns held some claim to fame besides wine. Mintaro had a couple including a hedge maze we decided to go thru. Filled with garden gnomes, this maze was another first for me. I thought it was cute but with the heat, copious amount of flies and $7 entrance fee some people may have been less than impressed.



This little town also holds the bragging rights to being the home of Martindale Hall. We went to visit this 1879, English style mansion but decided to forgo the inside tour since photographs weren't allowed and we wanted to go spend time with Cheryls' family. I was a bit put off by the fresh, fly covered sheep skull that was left on a post out front to dry and in turn stink up the garden. Just what I want to look and (and smell) while strolling around an old home. Martindale Hall was featured in the film, Picnic at Hanging Rock. I haven't seen the movie yet and I am not in any hurry to since I already suffered through the book.


We met up with Cheryl's Aunt Kay and Uncle Lindsay in Marrabel which is famous (sometimes infamous) for it's rodeo and more specifically for Curio, the brumby mare who remained unrideable for eight years until 1953 when Alan Woods completed the ten second ride (depicted in this statue). According to various newspaper articles the rodeo looks like it might be on the way out or at least cut down due to excessive animal cruelty. In 2007 stock contractor at the Marrabel Rodeo, Noel Fraser, was convicted of animal cruelty. Many events have been scrapped but the RSPCA is calling for a full ban of rodeos.


Since Easter was coming the next morning I promised Cooper to set up some sort of bunny trap...not a real trap but a camera trap. I wanted to get a picture of this elusive Peter Cottontail to show Cooper. Unfortunately my timer was a few seconds off and this picture of a shadowy figure was all I got. At first I was excited thinking atleast I may have caught the shadow of the Easter Bunny and then I saw this........


Super "Easter" Cooper! Carrot and all!!!











After a traditional lamb roast and a not so traditional silly string fight we spent Easter afternoon with Cheryl's family in Kapunda. Her aunt and uncle live in a beautiful converted school house and have two little pets out in the back. Little isn't exactly accurate since Quilty and Annabelle probably weigh close to a ton. They are lovely rust colored, fluffy Highland cows with very long horns. Kapunda is definitely country Australia. Cheryl's cousin was laughing at my "newness" to Australia when I cringed at the idea of shooting kangaroos. I was quickly falling under the "city slicker" label when Matt piped up with a little info that gave me some "farm cred". He told them about the Annie Oakley award I won at age 12 for being the best shot at my camp. I rode this wave including my NRA markmanship award and membership to Greystone's silver bullet club. I failed to mention the camp I went to was for girls most of whom came from tidy American suburbs and had never held, much less fired, a gun. I thought that would probably diminish the small flicker of respect I might have gained. When I was asked why I gave it up I decided it would be better to leave my gun-control rant at the door and simply murmured about city life not really being conducive to shooting. I also left out the fact that watching one piglet get slaughtered at a wilderness camp sent my 15 year old self into a whirlwind of vegetarianism and PETA activism. I am a city girl...this is obvious, and I do believe in gun control but there is a crazy pleasure in being a good shot, especially when I creamed Matt in a duck shooting video game, I repeat, video game.

I had a great time getting to know Cheryl's family. She was able to surprise her Grandmother with her Easter visit. Everyone was absolutely lovely and good fun for sure!!

Kapunda is also home to the "Map Kernow" aka The Cornish Miner. The statue is a monument to the profound contribution of the miners who worked in the Kapunda mines. The mines were open from 1844 to 1878 producing over one million pounds of ore and employing over 340 men and boys, most of them Cornish.







There were many other sights to see on the way home. Between Horsham and Stawell is the home of the Giant Koala Tourist Complex which is now for sale. You could be the proud owner of this 14 meter high, bronze and fiberglass Koala for only $220,000.








Murray Bridge has paddle steam boats and this old fashioned train engine along the river. If you listen closely you can hear the faint strumming of banjo strings as the theme song from Deliverance wafts thru the town. Ok, ok, so it was Matt and Me playing it on the ipod as we drove around.







By far my favorite local attraction is in Springton. I am a self admitted tree freak. I LOVE trees!! Especially big, twisty ones with lots of knots and branches. I thought this tree was special only because of pure aesthetics. It was actually a home at one point. Friedreich Herbig immigrated to South Australia in 1855 and took up residence in this hollow red gum tree. in 1858 he married and he and his wife welcomed their first two (of sixteen) children in this tree. The Herbig family still has reunions at this site every five years of so.




Not all of the sites were man made. We passed by the Grampians Ranges which looked fantastic and I would love to go back and hike around. We also passed Pink Lake which is actually pink. The colour is naturally-occurring from beta carotine that is produced by algae in the lake.
We had a fantastic time and on the way home a torrential downpour started which was bad for driving but wonderful for the farmers of the area.