Thursday, March 6, 2008

Melbourne's Golden Mile: Part Two

Matt and I were downtown yesterday and decided to finish the heritage walk we had started when I was here last time. We began at the immigration museum and walked up past quite a few beautifully preserved blue stone buildings many which have been turned into something that must make Melbourne proud, strip clubs. There are blue and gold heritage signs mixed in amongst posters for "Mandate" the all male review and pictures of girls with stars stragegically placed where clothes should be. So...moving right along. We came to a strcuctue which looked like it had an rough extension of corigated iron. Matt knew the structure was old and had been incorprated into the design of a hotel but wasn't exactly sure what it was.



We went around the corner and down Collins Street to view a large block of architecture built during Melbourne's land and building boom in the 1880s. An English journalist dubbed the city "Marvelous Melbourne" when land prices on Collins Street sold for the same amount as land on London's Regent Street. The Rialto hotel was designed by William Pitt and is one of Melbourne's finest examples of fin de siècle architecture. The hotel is under construction until later this year so we couldn't peak inside but there was an answer to the funny metal structure on the back side of this building. When the Rialto first open Melbourne's sewer system had yet to be completed. The corrugated iron part of the building was once the gentlemen's urinal. The lack of sewer led to horrific smells and the spread of typhoid. The city was rechristened "Marvelous Smellbourne."



We continued down Bank Street and stopped off at The Mitre Tavern, Melbourne's oldest building. Built first as a private residence around 1837 this tavern has catered to many in Melbourne's history including the judge who sentenced Ned Kelly to death. Banks Street is a lovely lane lined with really beautiful lamp posts. There is a beer garden set up outside which is great spot to watch men in suits come in and out the big red door of another historic spot, The Savage Club. The club is named after the poet Richard Savage and for the bohemian ideals of the founding members. There is also supposed to be a collection of arts related to "savagery" like shields and masks. I have read a bit about the history of the club and still am not exactly sure what they do in there. According to the Golden Mile brochure there is "arguing and singing, eating and drinking and fraternising"...hmmmmmm. Sounds like the Melbournian version of an "old boys club". I had to use the restroom in the Tavern and was more entertained than in a usual restroom visit. The walls are tiled with illustrated limericks some being a bit strange but entertaining none the less.



We continued back down Collins Street to a building that some consider holy ground. From the outside this massive building has all the characteristics of a typical medieval cathedral complete with arches and gargoyles.


When I entered the building the inside it also looked like and felt like a traditional gothic cathedral, quiet and grand with ornate marble arches and huge stained glass windows. But this isn't a church at all. This is the ANZ Bank also the dubbed "The Cathedral of Capitalists". The "Cathedral Room" or Great Hall used to be the meeting place just before the entrance to the old Melbourne Stock Exchange. Below the hall is a museum on Melbourne's banking history.


We caught a tram over to the Melbourne Museum for a tour of the inside of The Royal Exhibition Building. Built in 1880 and home of two world's fairs in less than twenty years. Also the home of Melbourne's fist Parliament in 1901. This building has been used for everything from a skating rink to music hall. The walls of this great hall have been repainted many times but over the last twelve years have been restored to their original glory. The people engaging in the restoration project had to carefully scrape back 27 layers of paint to find the original wall decor. When the original floor was pulled up for replacement a there was a virtual time capsule of mementos that had literally slipped throug the cracks including dance cards, photos, letters and matchbooks.




Even though the walls were painted over many of the original murals were saved by simply being boarded over. There are roman gods and latin phrases including "Carpe Diem". My favorite were "The Sylphs", eight murals or women symbolising truth, justice, night, day and the four seasons. Sylphs are normally considered immortal spirits who take form in the clouds so these paintings are very flowing and airy. The only one little thing I didn't like was I have always seen justice represented with a blindfold but not in the Royal Exhibitions Building version. She had the scale and the sword but no blindfold. I guess the painter never heard "Justice is Blind." I liked "Winter" the best.


This is a copy of a painting showing men gilding the top of the dome with gold. I especially enjoyed seeing this because of legend in Matt's own family. Matt's Great-Grandfather was a a commercial visual artist and performed on stage as an escape artist and painting burlap sacks while tied upside down. According to Matt's Mom at some point he climbed to the top of the Royal Exhibition Buildings. That would be a very long way to fall.